To Cruz de Ferro

I had a fitful night due to a coughing spell that left me a bit sleep deprived. But it was a beautiful day, perfect temperature and just a few clouds in the sky as we set out of Rabanal headed to Acebo. We were very excited at the prospect of getting to Cruz de Ferro, or Iron Cross.

After 5 km of uphill, we stopped at Foncebadon for café con leche to get us the last 2 km of the climb. These villages are few and far between, and the mountains fairly remote so we had to take advantage of all the food/water stops available.

We finally reached Cruz de Ferro - the highest point on the Camino at 1500 meters and is one of the most iconic symbols of the Camino de Santiago. It is a cross made of iron mounted atop a pole that stands roughly 30 feet in the air. At the base is a pile of stones that has grown higher and wider over the centuries. The tradition is that you bring a stone and leave it at the base of the cross. It represents a letting go of your burdens or things that you want to leave behind. Many people leave pictures of loved ones that have passed, some leave rosary beads or other mementos. Rory and I each left our stones that we brought from home, purchased in the Mission Santa Cruz gift shop on one of our training walks. With my stone, I chose to leave behind Judgment, Arrogance, Perfectionism and Intolerance. It was a powerful and emotional ritual. I know it is not a one and done; it is something I will have to work on and re-commit to every day. But I will have the memory of placing the stone at the foot of the Cruz de Ferro to keep me honest about my commitment.

As I walked beyond the cross, I reflected that I also need to leave behind the desire to hold onto things that cannot or should not be held. Like the countless people I have met, chatted with and felt connected to while on the Camino. I have found myself wanting to keep pace with them, and then feel disappointed when they get a day ahead or behind us. I want to hold onto these relationships. I think there is a special bond with fellow pilgrims because of the intensity of this shared experience. But most of these bonds are meant to be temporary. These beautiful people flow into our Camino life and teach us something - about ourselves or others - and then flow out. And that is okay. They need not become lifelong BFFs, though I’m sure it happens for some. That is the nature of life, I suppose, both on and off the Camino.

Oh, and I fervently hope that I left my cold at the base of the cross too.

After the Cruz de Ferro, the pilgrims thinned out quite a bit. We saw very few others on the trail in these remote mountains. But it was beautiful with all colors of wildflowers in every direction and sweeping views of the valleys we left behind and those ahead of us. We walked for a while near the top of this range, with just a bit of up and down. And then, we started the descent. A very brutal descent. Loose rocky shale on a steep slope for several kilometers. Thank goodness I put on the knee braces, or I would be in a world of hurt.

We made it to Acebo for the night, a very cute village about halfway down the mountain. Yea, halfway. That means the other half of the downhill awaits us tomorrow. But it will be first thing in the morning when the knees are fresh. And I gave them a good massage after my shower, so I am hopeful it won’t be quite so rough tomorrow.