Lots more pilgrims!

After a solid breakfast and under grey skies, we left Sarria en route to Portomarin - a 14 + mile day. The route today was mostly on paved roads with a few dirt tracks, all very forgiving terrain. As soon as we got out of the urban area, we were greeted once again by the smell of cow dung as we walked past the pastures. I guess people here must be used to it, but it’s totally gross! If this is what’s in store for the entirety of Galicia, I will be quite cranky by Sunday!

We definitely saw many newbies on the trail, identified mostly by the cleanliness of their packs, shoes and pants. I found myself wondering if I should quicken my pace to get ahead of them, assuming they will be slower because they are not yet in trail shape. Or perhaps slow my pace and let them pass me, since their not-yet-weary muscles will be stronger. And then I just decided I should keep my own pace as I have done all along, and let them come and go. But more people made it a little harder to let my thoughts wander and then narrate them. It also made it impossible to find a relatively private place to relieve myself on the side of the trail. That made the distances between the towns seem SO much longer!

It didn’t take long for the judge-y part of me to rear its ugly head, when five young men joined the trail with beers in hand at 9 AM. I had to remind myself that everyone does the Camino their own way. I was behind them for a while, watching them carefully to make sure they did not litter their bottles on the side of the trail, because I would feel obliged to pick them up and then scold them. So I picked up my pace and got ahead of them in order to quiet that judge. I figured if I can’t see them or hear them, they wouldn’t annoy me. As I waited at the next village for Rory, the guys came past me and respectfully put their bottles in the trash bin. Take that, judge!

Making our way through another small village, we were sidelined by some passing cows on their way to the pasture. Also there we came upon the funny horse that appeared to be teething on the metal fence rail. When I got a bit too close for a selfie, he also tried teething on my arm. He didn’t bite me, but I did feel like a total idiot city girl!

We made a long overdue coffee and restroom stop in Peruscallo. As we were warned, these stops are where we really experience the greater numbers of pilgrims, like the lines for coffee and the restroom. I noticed those same five guys at a table across from us, with another round of beers. Trying to take the high road here, I thought to myself perhaps they are just trying to keep the mosquitoes at bay. Who am I to judge? We also ran into a couple of other pilgrim friends from England -Helen and Evelyn-that we had dinner with in León. Fun!

The first part of the day was mostly a gentle uphill, until we reached the top of the mountain and the marker that indicated only 100km to Santiago. It was pretty much downhill from there. Just around the corner from that, we found another little pilgrim way station with food and beverages all on a donation basis so we stopped for a quick snack.

The final approach to Portomarín was a challenge for me with the fairly high and long bridge to get to the town. My fear of heights kicked in, and I had to do some deep breathing to keep from panicking. I made it across and then to the hotel, where I needed a drink!

Tomorrow is another moderately long day of 15+ miles and a decent uphill. So hoping for a good nights sleep!!