Fully into the Meseta

Disclaimer: given that we are now on the Meseta and clearly into the more reflective phase of our journey, these posts may get a little more philosophical and personal and less travelogue-ish. I will do my best to continue to add snarky humor where I can.

Last night, we had an unexpectedly delicious dinner of chicken stew, crusty French bread, grilled pork loin, salad, and chocolate roulade for dessert. Unexpected because it was in this tiny hamlet call Isar, a “suburb” of Hornillos del Camino which itself has a population of 60. The company was equally great. We were joined by a couple from Colorado, Mike and Emily, who have done the Camino before in pieces and are now doing it all in one stretch. And Derek from England who is 76 years old, a recovered alcoholic, on the autism spectrum and suffered a stroke four years ago. He is amazing in his self-awareness, determination and humility. He is also trying to complete the Camino in stages. I continue to be amazed at the life stories that our fellow pilgrims share. So inspirational!

Second day on the Meseta, and so far so good. We walked from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz. It was not as windy today, and we had beautiful blue skies the whole way. I have not found the Meseta to be boring, but perhaps we haven’t been at it long enough to get bored. There are still rolling hills, craggy rock formations, and cute little towns in between. We even tracked along a small river lined with trees for a bit. Yes, there is not a lot of shade to be had, but I am armed with my sun hat, lots of sunscreen and SPF clothing. And we continue to meet new people along the way - and even a friendly black and white cat at one of the cafes.

We walked the first part of the day with Mike and Emily. Mike asked an interesting question: What’s it like to walk the Camino with your sister? Immediately I replied we are still speaking to each other, and then added that it’s great. And it is! I am inspired by Rory who has undertaken this challenge at 71 years old, with little to no experience training for and doing this kind of physical challenge. I, at least, have some frame of reference from training for bike races, 10k races and triathlons in the past. I know the physical and mental game that is required. For her to take this on at her stage in life is simply amazing. And she is killing it, keeping her own pace, pushing through the discomfort of blisters, and still humming along to her tunes at the end of the day. You go, sista!

In the day to day of walking, Rory and I tend to spread out and keep our own pace. But at the end of the day, we are sharing the same hotel room, and sometimes it is a very small space! Even though we have shared history from growing up in the same house, there are 10 years between us. We are very different people with different idiosyncrasies, and we haven’t shared the same room for over 55 years (since we lived in Houston when I was five and Rory was 15)! But it’s working out just fine! We are giving each other space and accepting of each other’s routines. I think we have a shared understanding that this is a unique (and temporary) experience. And at the end of a long day, we are aligned in our desire for a hot shower and a cold beer - in that order! Cheers!!