Day 27? Losing track…

Lola was right there to greet us at breakfast and carry our luggage down the stairs. She asked about how I was feeling, and I told her I was feeling better and had a good nights sleep. She brought us breakfast of juice, coffee and toast - and kept checking back to see if she could bring us more of anything. I really wanted eggs, but didn’t want to ask. She was being so kind and wanted to do anything we asked. After breakfast we went back up to the room to rest a bit before getting the 9:30 bus to Astorga. When we finally came down and returned the key to Lola, she pulled Rory aside into the kitchen out of sight of the other pilgrims and handed Rory two wrapped sandwiches for our journey today. This woman who has so little wanted to ensure our health and fortitude. I am overwhelmed at the repeated kindness and generosity from those who have so little compared to me. Well, they have fewer material comforts than I do, but I believe they are far wealthier in spirit.

We made our way to the bus stop in Hospital del Orbigo to catch the bus to Astorga - doctor’s and Mercedes’ orders! One more rest day, and I should be good to resume the walk. I fell like I could walk it today, but it is better to fully recover and not risk my ultimate goal of Santiago.

From the bus, we noticed the landscape changing back to rolling hills and trees. We spotted several more of the groves of very neatly planted poplar trees, some groves that looked younger and shorter than others. With a little research, I learned that these plots are an experiment called the “Agropoplar” initiative. They are encouraging local farmers to plant these groves to address the timber shortage, provide them with more income and introduce more biodiversity.

When we got to Astorga, it was too early to check into our hotel, so we decided to tour the cathedral and another Gaudi building, the Palacio de Gaudi. Again a very impressive building that looks like it could have been the inspiration for a Disney castle. The attention to every detail that weaves function, artistry and meaning is just incredible. Like the stained glass windows in the dining room that have a greater amount of clear glass to allow more light in the room, but also includes images of fruit, vegetables and fields to signal the use of the room.

An interesting find… in several shops we have seen these little figurines that look like KKK statues. They are actually “capirotes,” a Spanish tradition during Semana Santa (Holy Week) where penitents wear robes and hooded conical hats. It dates back to the Spanish Inquisition, where convicts were put in “blessed robes” and hats with hoods. The color of the hats depended on the nature of the sin and punishment, and the robes and hoods were meant to hide the penitent’s identity due to their shame. It is a tradition that continues today, though shop owners now have to explain to American tourists - some even put signs up in English - that these figures do not represent the KKK. In fact, it is believed that the KKK appropriated this traditional costume for their own sinister purposes.

After those two tourist activities, it was noon, and we were ready for lunch. We splurged on a hamburger at a cafe on the Plaza before heading to the hotel for a nap. When we got to our hotel - a very fancy 4-star place on the Plaza San Francisco - we learned we couldn’t check in until 3pm. But we were offered the use of the spa for 15 euros. Deal! It was a very unpilgrim-like thing to do, but we needed a place to rest and we didn’t want to sit at a cafe and drink beer (weird, right?). So we indulged again in the pool, sauna and these heated stone chaise lounges in front of the window that looked out to the city. It was glorious! I will try to savor that memory when doing some of the climbs we have in store for us over the next few days!

Later we went for a stroll through town while waiting for our 8:30 dinner. (Still not a fan!) We found some ancient Roman ruins dating back to the first century, with an amazingly intact mosaic floor depicting plants and vines. And Rory found Sasquatch’s backpack!

Back to the trail tomorrow morning!