Better than expected!

Today was a big climb from Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. Only 13km (8mi) in distance but 750m (2460 ft) elevation gain. We anticipated a really long, grueling climb. It was slow going, but not nearly as bad as we had thought. We started with a big breakfast of ham and cheese omelettes and toast, knowing that there were no services anywhere along today’s route - no towns, cafes/restaurants or restrooms. We took plenty of water and some snacks (so our daypacks were a bit heavier than usual), and off we went with our friends from London. The route started on the main highway but after a few kilometers, we dropped down to a verdant path that ran parallel to the highway. The path weaved through beech forests with dappled sunlight, and the sound of gurgling streams drowned out the noise of the cars on the road above. And we even saw some snow.

We made it to Puerto de Ibaneta - the highest point on the route - without any pulled muscles, twisted ankles, wrenched knees or blisters. A minor victory! (My knees were even strong enough to allow me to squat and pee off the trail without injury, and that’s a big victory!)

We arrived in Roncesvalles early afternoon. Roncesvalles is a tiny village (population 30), that is most known for the battle that wiped out Charlemagne’s rear-guard army. There is a beautiful old church that was built in 1212, and just down from it is a mausoleum where King Sancho VII is buried as well as many of the soldiers from Charlemagne’s army. Other than those buildings and a few others that were (and still are) used to house pilgrims, there are just a couple of hotels and restaurants. Our hotel is a small, modern hotel that is fairly new.(Side note, the shower I took when I got in is maybe the best I’ve ever had - and not just because of the uphill climb. Plenty of hot water and strong water pressure. I may return just for the shower. Ha!)

So far, our journey has been remarkable. Perfect weather, amazing scenery, wonderful people. Our fellow pilgrims are so open and caring towards each other. There's a camaraderie knowing that we are all suffering in the same way... ha! And if you find folks at your pace, you wind up chatting with them for hours. It makes the time go by and distracts you from whatever may be aching!