Arrived!

We were up and on the trail before sunrise. We decided to skip breakfast and get started early to hopefully get ahead of the crowds moving toward Santiago. It was so peaceful and quiet for the first 2km, with only ourselves and the birds. We stopped in Pedrouzo for cafe con leche and a day-old croissant. Pilgrims can’t be choosy, especially before 7am.

The first part of the walk took us on a nice woodland path with groves of eucalyptus trees on each side. It was very peaceful, not too many others. We tried to soak up the last bits of solitude before we started to hit the outskirts of another big city.

Today is Mother’s Day in the US. I found my thoughts turning to my mom. This is my first Mother’s Day without her, and next week will mark the one-year anniversary of her passing. It is fitting that we arrived in Santiago today, because she was so much of a mother. So patient and loving and giving. And this journey for me has really been a tribute to her. I remember several years ago, before Covid and before her dementia really took hold of her, telling her about this journey I wanted to take. It was the last really lucid conversation I had with her where I knew she understood what I was talking about. She was so excited for me and thought it was such a wonderful thing. And I know she has been with me every step of the way. Watching over me, encouraging me, guiding me toward my better self.

Two hours in, and we walked along the edges of the Santiago airport. Our solitude was suddenly obliterated by the roar of a jet going right overhead. I began to brace myself for the onslaught of sights, sounds and smells of the city, as well as the thoughts of to-do lists and other obligations at home that crept into my consciousness. Dammit! But it was a beautiful sunny day into Santiago, and I was determined not to let anything ruin it.

As we were climbing the last hill, to Monte do Gozo where we were able to glimpse the spires of the cathedral of Santiago in the distance, I was hit with the smell of very strong BO. I looked around to see the source and realized it was me. I thought, I really need to wash these clothes! I had been wearing the same clothes for four days. Ew!

I saw the long stretch of straight flat road ahead littered with pilgrims. All marching, like an endless trail of ants scurrying toward a pot of honey. We among them arrived in Santiago at around 1pm and had a bite to eat (okay, and a quick beer) before we headed to the cathedral to get our compostela. When we entered the square of the cathedral, I was completely overwhelmed and teared up. First of all, the cathedral is MUCH bigger than I thought. Pictures don’t do it justice. I got dizzy just staring up at the spires. But also, the achievement! Years of dreaming. Months of planning. Weeks of walking. A dream realized, a bucket list item checked off. (Y’all know how I like checking things off my list!) It was surreal, and I will no doubt be processing and reflecting on this for a long time.

After seeing the cathedral from the outside (will go on the official tour tomorrow), we went straight to the Pilgrim Office to get our compostela, or as I like to call it, my get-out-of-hell-free card. That, too, was surreal. Maybe because it is all in Latin. I’ll let you know my thoughts after getting it translated.

Exhausted, we made our way to our hotel, where we showered and rested. I then celebrated Mothers Day with a zoom call with Mark and the kids - missing them all today. What a great gift they are to me. We followed that up with a glass of wine and then dinner with our pilgrim friend Monique from the Netherlands. What a perfect day!