And so we begin…

The day began in SJPP. We got underway at 8:30am (and 36 degrees), and opted to follow the less steep, less traveled Valcarlos route toward Roncesvalles, with a stopover in Valcarlos for the night. It was a good warm-up day - not too far (12 km/7.5 mi), not too much climbing (470m/1500ft). While chilly in the morning, it was blue skies all day and got to 60 degrees by mid-day. Within the first 30 minutes of our walk, we met up with another lovely couple from London who were about our age and walking pace, and also stopping in Valcarlos for the night. So we walked with them, and then joined up with another couple from Arizona who are also staying in Valcarlos. It was a walking party! It took us four hours, and we arrived in Valcarlos in time for the big mid-day meal. The scenery along the walk was spectacular! We crisscrossed the Chapilet river the whole way, walking past farms with sheep, goats, cows, pigs and a few barking dogs. We passed the ruins of ancient brick structures and perfectly manicured white-washed houses with red tile roofs - the norm for the Basque Country. And we crisscrossed between France and Spain several times, making it very difficult to know whether to say “oui” and “merci” or “si” and “gracias” to the locals. (For good measure, we did both - trying to improve the global impression of Americans.) Our lodging for tonight is a newly renovated spacious 3BR/2Ba apartment with every amenity. Fairly odd, given that Valcarlos is a very small village nestled in the Pyrenees - mostly a stopover point for pilgrims - with only one restaurant and one market, and with little historic interest except that the Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne camped here (circa 800 AD) after the defeat of his army in Ibaneta. All in all, a great first day on the Camino!