An easy day

From León this morning, we decided to take the bus partway to Mazarife, because again we would be faced with several kilometers of asphalt along the freeway in what they actually call the “Industrial Zone” and because we needed an easier day. I’m still a bit under the weather with a cold, and soon we will have some gnarly hills again and possible rain. So we’re resting up in anticipation of longer, tougher days ahead.

We took the alternative route to Mazarife, which is through a more scrubby landscape with rolling hills and passing through little hamlets. Gone are the miles and miles of crops on either side of the road. No cars, very few other pilgrims. Not many services but it is nice to get back to a quieter contemplation.

Stopped at Chozas de Abajo for lunch. Only one place in this little town, and the lady behind the counter was not a happy camper. There was an extensive menu of pizzas, and we wanted to order one. But she crossly told us “no pizza, only tortilla.” So we ordered little mini bocadillos in the display case. Boy did we get the stink eye for rejecting her tortilla!

After that unwelcome but necessary stop, we pressed on to Mazarife where our instructions from the tour company were to go to Bar Tio Pepe and call for a ride. Seemed a bit sketchy, but we got to Bar Tio Pepe and had a cold beer and some delicious empanadas. I swear the guy told me that the empanadas were filled with “atun” (tuna), but they were filled with an orange mash that was either sweet potato or squash. Either way, they were delicious so we ordered more!

We called our accommodation and asked for a ride, and we were promptly picked up and brought to this amazing bed and breakfast in the country. It is a former mill and was built over a small river (which hopefully does not mean more mosquitoes). It is run by a very friendly woman named Mercedes. She proudly told us that her best friend lives in Los Angeles and is married to Martin Sheen’s grandson. She even showed us a video of her friend having Christmas at Martin Sheen’s house singing Christmas carols. So that was pretty cool! Apparently the grandson fell in love with her when he was walking part of the Camino years ago and asked her to marry him right then.

We had an intimate and delicious home cooked meal courtesy of Mercedes, with a few other pilgrims at this big dining table in a large open room with a fireplace. It felt very homey.

I am still fascinated by the storks and their nests that are atop nearly every church we pass. They are so beautiful to watch.